RESEARCHING A NEW CLOTHING LINE
Estimating Startup Clothing LinesPart of your clothing line research will involve determining what your garments will sell for at retail and working that back to the price you need to achieve to be profitable long-term.
As a startup, you must realize that the products you will be competing with have the advantage of higher volumes and established supply chains.
It is unrealistic to expect profitability in your first year of operation.Your prices are defined by your channels of distribution, product differentiation, and saleability within retail price points. You can work backwards from retail by knowing that most retailers keystone (wholesale x 2) or even use wholesale x 2.5 to achieve their margins.
Ultimately, as a wholesaler, it would be realistic to target a gross margin of 40%. Therefore, a garment that you believe should retail at $60 would be sold at wholesale between $20 and $25 and would be purchased by you from your manufacturer at between $14 and $16 including freight.
RESEARCHING A NEW CLOTHING LINE
Funding Clothing Startups
As a startup you are acutely aware of how difficult it can be to fund a new operation. Even with the best of business plans it is difficult to secure bank financing without pledging personal assets. Assistance can sometimes be found at the state or local level through business incubators or economic development funds.At Style Source, we are often asked how much it costs to start up an apparel business. This is a difficult question to answer, as the product itself may range from a dollar a unit to upwards of $30 or more. Our experience with dozens of startups provide us with a general guideline of $6,000-$15,000 per style for mid-priced apparel at a minimum order level. Keep in mind that this amount is for product only and that you will need ongoing funds for operational expenses.For all custom orders Style Source requires a 50% deposit upon order placement. The balance of this payment may be applied with credit card (MasterCard, Visa, Discover), COD, or pre-payment when ready
SAMPLING & ESTIMATING CLOTHING LINES
Style Source only provides sampling services for those customers ready to order production quantities upon approval of the samples. Style Source can develop your style for you. The more information you can initially provide the better. We can work from comp samples, drawings, or specifications. We will need as much of the following information as possible:
Sample size
Fabric criteria (content, construction, weight, etc.)
Desired colors
Size range
Label type, placement, and supplier
Packaging requirements
Estimated initial order quantity
If you are sending us samples for reference and wish to have them returned please include a self-addressed and stamped envelope, or a UPS or FedEx account number. We typically hold customer samples as long as there is active dialogue. We reserve the right to dispose of these samples if a return is not requested within 8 weeks. From this information we will provide you with a pre-cost estimate. These estimates take 5-10 business days to prepare, as we evaluate fabric utilization, engineering details, and findings costs. There is no charge for this quotation service.Once your pre-cost estimate is accepted we will, at your direction, make fit/construction samples (first samples). We will produce four first samples, two for internal testing and reference and two for your evaluation. These samples will be constructed from "like" fabric similar to what you intend to use for production. The charge for this service is $375. First samples normally take 14-21 business days to produce. Our development pricing is predicated on your intent to order production upon sample approvals. In the event production is not ordered an additional $375 fee will be assessed per development. If the products are ordered within a 1-year period, $375 will be credited to the order.Once you have reviewed your samples one will be sent back to us with either an approval or revisions request. Very minor revisions may be made without the need for re-sampling. Revisions due to our error will be made and re-sampled at no additional charge. Revisions due to a change in direction will be billed at $70 an hour plus materials
SAMPLING & ESTIMATING CLOTHING LINES
Defining Clothing ProductsYou've written your business plan (if not, click here) and you are ready to execute the next phase. This phase includes defining the products you wish to sell. The following criteria must be addressed in order to request prototyping of first samples:
Style Source only provides sampling services for those customers ready to order production quantities upon approval of the samples.
Fabric criteria (knit or woven, etc.)
Fabric construction (jersey, muslin, interlock, poplin, etc.)
Fabric weight
Fabric content (100% cotton, blend, etc.)
Colors
Garment construction
Sizes
Grading
Findings
Labeling
Packaging
Value-added services (print, embroidery, etc.)
SAMPLING & ESTIMATING CLOTHING LINES
Production Minimums Domestic Minimums
Using our stock 100% cotton knits (jersey, 1x1 rib, 2x1 rib, French terry, fleece, interlock, thermal) in our 7 stock colors (navy, red, black, white, natural, pink, baby blue), there is no textile minimum and a 30-dozen apparel minimum with a color minimum of 2 dozen.Using fabrics we do not stock, the apparel minimum is contingent on the textile minimum. Most common knit fabrics carry color minimums of 500 yards and overall textile minimums of 1,000 yards. Performance fabrics typically carry 1,200-yard minimums per fabric/color. Depending on the utilization of the fabric and garment, this may translate to 4,000 garments for infant items to 850 garments for adult long-sleeve tees.An alternative to using up textiles in your first production is to place a deposit equivalent to 75% of the value of the remaining fabric.
Style Source will warehouse the balance of your fabric for future production.
Import MinimumsStyle Source's import minimums begin at 1,200 pieces per style/600 per color. We have factories in China, Macau, India, and Pakistan who will work with us at these levels. For items that do not consume much fabric (utilization under a half yard a garment), garment minimums may be higher, as they are driven by textile minimums. Highly technical garments or garments requiring less common fabrics may also require higher minimums
SAMPLING & ESTIMATING CLOTHING LINES
Sampling Process for ClothingDomestic SamplesBranded Program: You may select any item(s) in our two brand books for sampling. We will ship them direct from the nearest warehouse. You are charged for the item plus $10 shipping and handling (under 2 lbs.) or actual shipping costs for larger quantities.
For printed samples you will be charge screen fees ($25 each) plus $100 setup plus the cost of the garment.
For embroidery samples you will be charged a tape fee of $75-$250 (depending on stitches) plus $15 per garment plus the garment cost.Domestic Custom Garments: Style Source can develop garments or sewn products specifically to your needs.
We require the following information to begin the process:
Fabric type
Fabric weight
Color(s)
Shrinkage
Sample or line drawing
Size ratio and range
Seam types
After-wash dimensions
Label type(s)
Labels per garment
Size grade
Packaging requirements
Overage maximums
Value-added requirements:
Garment dyeing
Embroidery
Screen printing
Heat transfer printing
Garment washing
Fabric printing
Bar coding
Steaming/pressing
Style Source will acquire fabric either identical to or similar to (depending on availability) what you are requesting. We will send you two samples for construction and fit. Our fee is $375 for this service. Our development pricing is predicated on your intent to order production upon sample approvals. In the event production is not ordered an additional $375 fee will be assessed per development. If the products are ordered within a 1-year period, $375 will be credited to the order. Domestic Sales SamplesStyle Source only provides sampling services for those customers ready to order production quantities upon approval of the samples. Style Source will produce sales samples in exact color and fabric. Usually, this means a commitment to manufacturing production quantities of fabric (if it is a non-stock fabric or color). This commitment is equal to 80% of the value of the purchased fabric, which will be applied as part of your production order deposit when placed. Sales samples are billed at 2-1/2 times the quoted price. Import SamplesStyle Source will select the appropriate country and facility for your needs. We do require a completed spec pack to facilitate proper samples. A counter sample would also be helpful, as would a fabric swatch. You must be positioned to handle our quoted minimums, Style Source only provides sampling services for those customers ready to order production quantities upon approval of the samples.Style Source will produce first samples in like fabric for fit and construction. We require a $400 deposit per item to begin this process. You will not be billed for your samples, only the freight required to transport them. In the event you do not place an order we will retain the unused portion of your deposit as a sample fee. If you do place an order, the unused portion will be applied toward production. For more information on import sampling, click here. Import Sales SamplesStyle Source will produce import sales samples at 2-1/2 times the quoted price plus freight. You may need to commit to production quantities of fabric and findings, depending on your level of customization. Lead times are typically 45-60 days, depending on raw material availability.
SAMPLING & ESTIMATING CLOTHING LINES
Cost-Estimating a Clothing LineDomestic PricingBranded Apparel: Choose the brand, style, color, sizes, and quantities you plan to order. If you choose to utilize any value-added services (heat transfers, screen printing, dyeing, washing, embroidery, re-labeling, bar coding, etc.), be sure to let us know. If screen printing is to be included, please define the number of colors and the size of the artwork as it is to appear. Style Source will quote you based on this information. Custom Apparel: In order to provide a cost estimate for custom apparel, Style Source requires the following information:
Fabric type
Fabric weight
Color(s)
Shrinkage
Sample or line drawing
Size ratio and range
Seam types
After-wash dimensions
Label type(s)
Labels per garment
Label placement
Size grade
Packaging requirements
Overage maximums
Value-added requirements:
Garment dyeing
Embroidery
Screen printing
Heat transfer printing
Garment washing
Bar coding
Steaming/pressing
From this information, Style Source will be happy to provide you with a pre-cost estimate. This type of estimate does not involve the creation of a sample; rather, we will rough out a pattern and calculate utilization without the advantage of using actual patterns or size ratios. This service is provided at no charge and will take 5-10 business days.In order to provide a more accurate price, Style Source will need to develop a pattern and construct a first sample. We will provide a price consistent with the sample we provide. If changes are to be made, your price is subject to modification accordingly. Import Pricing In order to provide accurate import pricing, Style Source requires a counter sample, a completed spec pack, or both. We do not charge for pricing, and an estimate usually takes 10-14 business days. You must provide estimated quantities per style/color with your request.
PROTOTYPING & MANUFACTURING CLOTHING
Style Source is a highly technical company with the ability to define, service, and control product development, prototyping, and manufacturing. We also provide a host of value-added services designed to allow a completely customized finished package. Style Source only provides sampling services for those customers ready to order production quantities upon approval of the samples.Pre-Cost EstimatesUnless otherwise directed, Style Source will provide an initial pre-cost estimate free of charge. An estimate usually takes 5-10 business days. Any value-added operations (embroidery, screen printing, garment dyeing, packaging, etc.) will require artwork, color submits, and precise definition of raw material required (hang tags, thread types, inks, etc.). You will also need to provide direction for quoting your programs domestically or offshore.Prototyping—DomesticUpon approval of estimated pricing, Style Source will develop and submit two prototype samples. One sample is to be wash-tested and the other used as an approval sample (to be signed and returned to us). A fee of $375 per style will be charged. Our development pricing is predicated on your intent to order production upon sample approvals. In the event production is not ordered an additional $375 fee will be assessed per development. If the products are ordered within a 1-year period, $375 will be credited to the order. All prototypes are submitted in blank white form (for those styles using our stock fabric). The sampling process usually takes 14-21 business days (for single submissions, multiple submissions may take longer). If the prototypes are to be made from a purchased fabric, lead times may be extended. For information on import prototyping, click here. Sales samples from stock colors and fabrics will be produced for you at 2-1/2 times the price of the garment. If you require samples from non-stock colors or fabrics, please ask for more information. As a helpful guide, Style Source offers the following checklist for submission of sample/cost requests:
Fabric criteria (content, construction, weight, color, etc.)
Shrinkage
Sample or line drawing
Size ratio and range
Seam types
After-wash dimensions
Label type(s)
Labels per garment
Label placement
Size grade
Packaging requirements
Overage maximums
Value-added requirements:
Garment dyeing
Embroidery
Screen printing
Heat transfer printing
Garment washing
Fabric printing
Bar coding
Steaming/pressing
Production time for orders under 100 dozen is 6 working weeks or less for domestic blank garments made from stock PFGD white fabrics. Each value-added process adds 5-10 business days. For larger orders a production schedule will be developed. Manufacturing—What Can Style Source Do For You?Style Source utilizes a host of local value-added manufacturers to provide complete finished packages exactly to your specifications, colorations, and enhancements. Why use us instead of going direct? In a nutshell, we handle all the details, working losses, and headaches.
Details: Style Source works out the best possible flow for product quality and enhancement. We define screen and embroidery placement and tolerances, set ranges for commercial matches, identify and rectify in-process variations, and define the sequences of operations.
Quality: Style Source guarantees each and every process that makes up our finished product. Our quality control staff monitors each process for conformance to standards and conducts quality audits after each garment finishing process.
Working Loss: Each operation creates a certain degree of off-quality product. We absorb all of the costs associated with working loss.
Headaches: The number of variables involved in producing a dyed and printed garment is unbelievable. Things do go awry, whether it be a quality issue, production scheduling, weather delays, shipping or packaging problems, etc. Our service provides seamless delivery, where all of these problems are unseen and unfelt by our customers. Style Source also offers many apparel services not detailed here. They include:
Sourcing of fabrics and findings, including velour, sherpa, corduroy, polar fleece, print cloth, etc.
Customized packaging
Consultation services
Importation of custom apparel
PROTOTYPING & MANUFACTURING CLOTHING
Domestic vs. Import Sourcing
Domestic Sourcing
Import Sourcing
Minimums as low as 360 per style
Minimums beginning at 1,200 per style, 600 per color
Order turn time of 6-10 weeks
Order turn time of 14-16 weeks
Stock fabrics in 100% cotton knits
All custom fabrics
Higher prices
Lower prices
50% deposit/net on balance if qualified
50% deposit/50% when shipped or LOC
100% quality guarantee
100% quality guarantee
Limited textile availability
Larger textile pool
Limited ability to decorate
Broad range of decorating options
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Private Labeling of Branded ApparelWhether you wish to apply an existing design to apparel, create a custom style, or private-label commodity apparel, Style Source can accommodate your needs. If you have a graphic and wish to build a line off that graphic, there are several possible approaches. The first is driven by price points. If you plan to apply the graphic to commodity products (standard tees, sweats, etc.), the best bet is to consider purchasing a major brand product and re-labeling (or not). This is commonly done and is perfectly legal. Style Source has strong relationships with major distributors and can assist you with product selection as well as favorable pricing by handling the purchase of the apparel, transitional operation, screen-printing or embroidering, and packaging. The minimum order for this service is 240 pieces.You may access our two wearables catalogs at http://www.4logowearables.com/ and http://www.brandbookonline.com/. We will quote pricing once you have selected the brand, colors, sizes, and quantities you require.In order for Style Source to price this type of program, we require artwork in both .jpg and .eps formats. Color separations are helpful. Any artwork modifications that may be required will be evaluated and price-quoted. Screen charges are $25 each, and embroidery tapes run from $50 to $125. Print samples are $100 plus cost, and embroidery samples are $15 plus cost.Style Source will private label garments for you. We rely on the customer to send us labels; we can, however, assist you with a resource. You will want to discuss with us any label application that is not a topsew label. If we are purchasing apparel and re-labeling, there is a charge of 40¢ per garment for quantities under 500 and 35¢ per garment for orders of 500 or more. This includes removal of the old label and professional application of the new label, assuming there is a separate care and content label. If we are manufacturing the apparel there is no extra charge.
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Custom Clothing DevelopmentStyle Source offers full customization for a wide variety of sewn products. We work with virtually any top or bottom weight fabric, including knits, denims, rayon faille and challey, poplin, corduroy, twills, and more. We stock 10 basic 100% cotton knit fabrics in 7 colors. If you utilize these fabrics and colors our minimum is 30 dozen. We can custom-color our fabrics with a 500-yard minimum. We will also source virtually any type of fabric, with the understanding that the apparel minimum will be based on the purchase fabric minimum, which usually runs 1,000-1,200 yards per color.A One-Stop ShopStyle Source is your one-stop shop for custom-manufactured colored, imprinted, and embroidered garments. We are a premium supplier to many name-brand catalogs and retailers. From the sourcing of fabrics and findings through custom packaging, our team can produce virtually any sewn product. Our services include:
Custom production from virtually any woven fabric
Custom piece-dyed colors
Garment dyeing with 200-pound per-color per-fabric minimums (please ask about delivery options)
Fabric dyeing with 320-pound dyed fabric commitment
Screen or heat-transfer printing
Embroidery
Contract manufacturing
Packaging
International sourcing
Custom grading
Management of large import programs
Relabeling/enhancement of branded apparel 20-dozen-per-style minimum (two-dozen minimum per size) for private labeling of pre-patterned catalog styles, with six-week-or-less delivery.30-dozen-per-style minimum (two-dozen minimum per size) for custom garments from stock PFD or piece-dyed fabrics, with six-week-or-less delivery.50-dozen-per-style minimum for custom piece-dyed colors (except hats and accessories).
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Costing Custom ClothingTo provide you with an accurate pre-cost estimate, Style Source will require detailed information regarding your desired custom style. The more information you can initially provide the better. Style Source can work from comp samples, drawings, or specifications. In preparing your estimate, we will need as much of the following information as possible (Style Source only provides costing services to customers who are fully prepared to move to development and subsequent production):
Sample size and after-shrink specifications
Fabric type, content, and weight
Desired colors
Size range
Label type, label placement, and label supplier
Packaging requirements
Estimated initial order quantity From this information Style Source will provide you with a pre-cost estimate. Pre-cost estimates take 5-10 business days to prepare, as we evaluate fabric utilization, engineering details, and findings costs. There is no charge for this quotation service.
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Sampling Custom ClothingOnce your pre-cost is approved Style Source will, at your direction, make first samples. We will produce four samples, two for internal testing and evaluation and two for your review. The charge for this service is $325. First samples usually take 14-21 business days to produce. Additional samples (sales samples, size runs, etc.) are charged at 2-1/2 times the quoted price of the garment.
Production SpecificationsOnce your costs and samples have been approved, Style Source is prepared to begin production of your custom apparel. To ensure that your custom order is filled to your exact specifications (and that the level of service you receive is second to none), we will need you to answer the following questions as accurately as possible: Labels
Will we be using generic labels or labels that you provide?
How many labels will we be applying and where will they be affixed (please supply drawing)? Any labels requiring folding need to be delivered pre-folded.
Are your labels suitable for garment dyeing?
Do your labels contain all federally mandated information?
Do your labels have enough sewing margin? Buttons, Snaps & Other Fasteners
What size fasteners are required?
Do they require special application equipment?
Will you supply buttons or do you need them sourced?
Will we be using stainless steel, white, or other colored snaps? Packaging
What are your packaging requirements? Our standard for custom orders is one dozen garments in a printer's fold, tied and tagged. There is no extra charge for "stock" packaging, one dozen folded in a poly bag. Other Special Requirements
Do you have any other special production or handling requirements?
Do you have specific product manufacturing tolerances?
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Production ProcessThere are many phases in the custom apparel production process. If you are utilizing a textile that we have in stock, Style Source is positioned to move directly to marker making. If the textile you require is not a stock product, the production process begins with yarn purchasing and progresses through knitting, dyeing, and finishing. This process typically takes 4-5 weeks. During this time, all findings are identified and ordered. Fabrics are tested for conformance to established quality criteria. After cut tickets are issued, markers are produced and sent to cutting. Once at sewing, cut parts are split and scheduled for assembly. If there are value-added services to be performed after sewing, garments are transported to the appropriate facility and then packaged as specified. To ensure the consistent quality of your custom clothing order, Style Source develops size and construction specifications prior to production. We also produce internal samples to provide to the sewing floor along with these specifications. Our audit team monitors in process and audits all lots after they receive 100% inspection.OvercutsAs with any manufacturing process, not all of what we start out to produce results in first-quality product. If you require the exact quantity that you order, please specify and we will overcut the lot by a factor of 3%. We request that if we do a superlative job and have up to 3% overage in first-quality product that you accept and pay for that overage. If you will not accept overages, please mark your order "Do Not Overcut" and understand that there may be minor shortages in first-quality quantities delivered.Ordering InformationComplete information is the key to "getting it right" the first time. When ordering please make sure to include shipping and billing information, ship date, cancel date, and a purchase order number.Deposits are required on all custom orders. Please inquire and arrange for requested deposits when you order.Orders will be processed once all supplies and deposits to be provided by the customer have been received.Most orders are shipped six weeks or less from the date of the order. Order size, complexity, and timing can affect deliveries. Actual delivery dates will be quoted at the time of the order.No cancellations will be accepted once orders have been confirmed in writing
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Value-Added Services
Heat Transfers Screen Printing Dyeing Washing Embroidery There are hundreds of ways to embellish a garment. From unusual trimmings to custom printing or embroidery, Style Source can assist you in achieving the end result you are looking for. We offer a variety of value-added options designed to minimize the time and effort you must expend, including heat transfers, screen printing, dyeing, washing, and embroidery services. Style Source subcontracts these value-added services to local providers we have been working with for many years. We have production positions with them as well as favorable pricing. Most importantly, they have grown to understand the quality level we expect and provide a routinely high level of consistency. Although you may save money by subcontracting directly, there are many distinct advantages to utilizing our "full package" pricing:
We will warrant your entire product line.
We will provide packaging services if required.
We will absorb all fallout due to misprints, stains, misplacement, etc.
We will monitor and approve strikeoffs and production.
Our process is seamless, requiring no special attention from you until the goods arrive at your receiving department
Value-Added Services: Heat Transfers
Heat Transfers Screen Printing Dyeing Washing Embroidery Heat transfers are not what they used to be. Today's technologies have improved heat transfer quality and processes to the point that they can rival screen printing. Are heat transfers for you? The following may help you decide.Getting StartedAs with all manufacturing processes, the quality of your final product is only as good as the sum of its raw materials. In heat transfer printing the most critical raw material is the prepared-for-printing (PFP) or prepared-for-garment dyeing (PFGD) garment. Both preparation processes will give you a suitable substrate (base). Proper fabric preparation is essential, as the heat transfer printing process can cause "yellowing" on improperly finished fabric. Prior to any printing, your transfer printer should run tests on the product you plan to use and alert you to any possible fabric issues.If you are printing on dyed garments, the amount of coverage and "grin through" may vary. Make sure to supply your transfer manufacturer with garments in all colors to be printed. The printer will then formulate inks for the best possible all-around coverage. Heat transfer manufacturers all have different minimums. Make sure you understand the minimums and how many dozens they represent. Initially there are "setup" and "art" charges for developing the transfers. Make sure you understand these charges and factor them into your costs and pricing. Heat transfer manufacturers can develop your artwork from many different starting points. The method that leaves the smallest margin for error is for you to provide "camera-ready" artwork to the transfer manufacturer. Many types of "camera-ready" artwork are not appropriate for heat transfer printing. Your transfer manufacturer can tell you the specifics (i.e., dots/inch, separation types, etc.) of what is needed.ColorThe success your transfer manufacturer has in matching your color standards is directly related to the difficulty in formulating and processing your colors. The more "custom" your colors are, the greater the likelihood of difficulty in continually matching those colors. The simplest way to avoid these problems is to pick "process colors." These are standard color formulates with a proven track record. Your transfer manufacturer can supply you with a chart of available process colors. Whether using process or custom colors, be sure to ask for samples, on your product. Check not only for correct color match, but also for even coverage and suitable hand (feel of the product).Once you have approved the color standard from the heat transfer manufacturer it is imperative that you and the supplier agree on how much variation from standard you will accept. Many heat transfer manufacturers (like garment dyers) use the term "commercially acceptable match" to describe what you may see as unacceptable. Make sure that you understand what your transfer manufacturer means by "commercially acceptable," and make sure the transfer manufacturer understands what is and is not acceptable to you. Always keep samples of "approved colors and artwork" for future reference. They can be of immense value if and when a dispute occurs. The heat transfer process does not generally allow for color blending and/or fading from one color to another. Color separation tends to be very distinct.PreparationIf the application of your transfers is going to be done by your transfer supplier or a contract transfer shop, make sure to provide them with a detailed sketch of the garment to be printed and the correct print placement. Agree as to your tolerances concerning placement. Make sure your print size is appropriate to the garment sizes you are printing (most transfer suppliers can enlarge and reduce your artwork as needed). Make sure to see samples of the resized artwork on the corresponding garments. If your transfers will be applied by an outside contractor and/or your print run involves more than one design or design size, you can expedite the process and increase accuracy by "pre-lotting" your shipment to the contractor. Talk to your contractor and find out if packing garments by color, size, or print to be applied will be helpful.Many times there can be discrepancies in the final "count" of your garments. Be certain that all garments shipped to the contractor are counted and documented. Explain to your contractor that you expect inventories to be kept accurate and that shortages must be reported in a timely fashion. If your print is trademarked or copyright-protected, will the transfer manufacturer and/or contractor comply with the required rules and procedures? Check for licensing agreement and be sure you understand the "legalese." Communicate the specifics to your supplier and obtain any required signatures prior to turning over the artwork. Ask your contractor what garments they will use for setting up the equipment. Do they have scrap fabric or shirts to use or do they use your stock? How many will they need? How will this affect your inventory?Dimensional ChangeWhen using fabrics that are not "preshrunk" some shrinkage may occur due to handling and heat. Check your printed samples' dimensions to be sure they comply with your specifications. Printing on stripes and other horizontal repeating patterns requires extra planning and handling. Misapplication of the print or improper positioning of the garment may cause negative results such as curving or bowing, causing the print to seem misaligned.QualityAs with any manufacturing process, there will always be some substandard merchandise produced. Find out what the transfer manufacturer's and contractor's average print reject rate is. Agree on a rate above which the manufacturer or contractor will be financially responsible for ruined product. Remember to cost rejects into your product's price. Many heat transfer contractors handle garment inspection and classification differently. Some inspect for print quality and placement only. Some also inspect for gross garment defects. Make sure you understand how your production will be inspected and sorted. If you are asking for extra or special services, there will probably be an added fee. Know your costs up front.If you have specific inspection classifications, supply that information, in writing, to the contractor. Give them photos or samples of the different defects you want identified. Check the first few lots of printed product to verify the contractor's compliance. Give specific written instructions on the disposition of irregular and substandard merchandise. You may want it held for future shipment or shipped to a different location than the first quality garments. There are other services related to finishing that some heat transfer printers will provide. These may include sorting (by size, color, etc.), special packaging, pressing, steam tunneling, hanging, and tagging. Your contractor may provide other services that may be of value to you. Ask your contractor for what you need and remember to settle on price prior to commencing production.Other ThoughtsWhen choosing a transfer manufacturer here are some other considerations that may be helpful:
Will the transfer supplier provide samples prior to production? How many samples will they provide and what are the costs?
How far do the transfer manufacturer's art development capabilities go? Does the transfer manufacturer send art out to independent services? How long does it take to get the art processed and a sample produced?
What is the transfer supplier's range of colors? Can the transfer supplier match anything or are you limited to certain specific color ranges?
What does the transfer manufacturer's shop look like? Is it the kind of place that instills confidence in the transfer manufacturer's capabilities? What is the transfer manufacturer's average production cycle time? Is there a slow and busy time of year?
Is there one individual at the transfer manufacturer who will be responsible for communication regarding your account? Who should you talk to if your primary contact is unavailable? ConclusionMany people buy transfers and apply them themselves. Basic heat transfer presses are reasonably priced and easy to operate. There are many benefits to applying the transfers yourself:
You can apply only what you need when you need it.
You can control quality and placement with more ease.
No production minimums to worry about.
You have better control over scheduling.
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Value-Added Services: Screen Printing
Heat Transfers Screen Printing Dyeing Washing Embroidery The application of new technologies is slowly transforming the screen printing process. But many problems and limitations still exist. Our discussion is focused on screen printing 100% cotton garments, but many of the principles outlined here apply to any fabric.Getting StartedAs with all manufacturing processes the quality of your final product is only as good as the sum of the raw materials in that product. In garment screen printing the most critical raw material is the prepared-for-printing (PFP) or prepared-for garment-dyeing (PFGD) garment. Both preparation processes will give you a suitable substrate (base). Proper fabric preparation is essential, as the screen printing process can cause "yellowing" on improperly finished fabric. Have your screen printer run tests on the product you plan to use. This will alert you to any possible fabric issues.If you are printing on dyed garments the amount of coverage and "grin through" may vary. Make sure to supply your printer with garments in all colors to be printed. Your printer may then formulate the inks for the best possible all-around coverage, including extra steps for certain colorations. Most garment screen printers measure production in dozens. Each printer has different production minimums. Some printers charge a minimum regardless of the actual dozens. Make sure you understand the minimums and how many dozens they represent.Initially there is a "setup" or "screen making" charge for making the original screens and developing the artwork. Make sure you understand those charges and factor them into your costs and pricing. Garment screen printers can develop your artwork from many different starting points. The method that leaves the smallest margin for error is for you to provide "camera-ready" artwork to the printer. Many types of camera-ready artwork are not appropriate for screen printing. The printer can tell you the specifics (dots/inch, separation types, etc.) of what they need.ColorThe success the printer has in repeatedly matching your color standards is directly related to the difficulty originally encountered in formulating and processing your colors. The more "custom" your colors are, the greater the likelihood of difficulty in continually matching those colors. The simplest way to avoid these problems is to pick "process colors." These are standard color formulas with a proven track record. Your printer can supply you with a chart of available process colors. Whether using process or custom colors, be sure to see product samples. Check not only for correct color match, but also for even coverage and suitable hand (feel of the product).Once you have approved the color standard from the screen printer it is imperative that you and the printer agree on how much variation from standard you will accept. Many garment screen printers (like garment dyers) use the term "commercially acceptable match" to describe what you may see as unacceptable. Make sure that you understand what your printer means by "commercially acceptable," and make sure your printer understands what is and is not acceptable to you. There are many specialized types of printing inks including soy-based inks, puff inks, organic inks, etc. These inks, while very much in demand, have their own drawbacks. They generally cost more and have higher defect rates. Talk to your printer about what to expect of the inks you choose. Always keep samples of "approved colors and artwork" for future reference. They can be of immense value if and when a dispute occurs.PreparationProvide your screen printer with a detailed sketch of the garment to be printed and the correct print placement. Agree as to your tolerances concerning placement, and make sure your print size is appropriate to the garment sizes you are printing. Most printers can enlarge and reduce your artwork as needed. Make sure to see samples of the resized artwork on the corresponding garments. If print placement is extremely critical, we recommend that, if at all possible, the printing take place on the finished garment. Some manufacturers and printers prefer to print on the unassembled garment components. This approach eases handling and reduces time, but it opens you up to another whole set of potential problems, i.e. mismatched garment components and variations in placement due to sewing inaccuracies and tolerances.If your print run involves more than one design or design size, you can expedite the process and increase accuracy by "pre-lotting" your shipment to the printer. Talk to your printer and find out if packing garments by color, size, or print to be applied will be helpful. Many times there can be discrepancies in the final "count" of your garments. Be certain that all garments shipped to your printer are counted and documented. Explain to your printer that you expect inventories to be kept accurate and that shortages must be reported in a timely fashion. If your print is trademarked or copyright-protected, will the printer comply with the required rules and procedures? Check your licensing agreement and be sure you understand the "legalese." Communicate the specifics to your printer and obtain any required signatures prior to turning over the artwork.Determine who will store the screens and artwork when your print run is complete. Most printers don't mind giving you the screen (you've paid for them with the "setup" charges). But unless you have an appropriate location to store them or you are planning on changing printers, you are probably better off having the printer store them. Some printers will not give up the screens. If this is a potential issue for you, discuss it with the printer prior to making the screens. Ask your printer what garments they will use for setting up the equipment:
Do they have scrap fabric or shirts to use or do they use your stock?
How many will they need?
How will this affect your inventory? Dimensional ChangeWhen using fabrics that are not "pre-shrunk," some shrinkage may occur due to handling and heat. Check your printed samples' dimensions to be sure that they comply with your specifications. Printing on stripes and other horizontal repeating patterns requires extra planning and handling. Misapplication of the print or improper positioning of the garment may cause negative results such as curving or bowing, causing the print to misaligned.QualityAs with any manufacturing process, there will always be some substandard merchandise produced. Find out what your screen printer's average print reject rate is. Agree on a rate above which the printer will be financially responsible for ruined product. Remember to cost rejects into your product's price. Certain fabrics may yellow in the dryer. If you are printing panels, you may wish to include running the unprinted panels through to maintain shade consistency. Many screen printers handle garment inspection and classification differently. Some inspect for print quality and placement only. Some also inspect for gross garment defects. Make sure you understand how your production will be inspected and sorted. If you are asking for extra or special services, there will probably be an added fee. Know your costs up front.If you have specific inspection classifications, supply that information, in writing, to your screen printer. Give them photos or samples of the different defects you want identified. Check the first few lots of printed product to verify the printer's compliance. Give specific written instructions on the disposition of irregular and substandard merchandise. You may want it held for future shipment or shipped to a different location than the first-quality garments. There are other services related to finishing that some screen printers will provide. These may include sorting (by size, color, etc.), special packaging, pressing, steam tunneling, hanging, and tagging. Your printer may provide other services that may be of value to you. Ask your printer for what you need and remember to settle on price prior to commencing production.Some Other ThoughtsWhen choosing a screen printer here are some other considerations that may be helpful:
Does the printer have a sample press and/or single-sample capabilities?
Does the printer make (burn) the screens on premises or are they sent out to a service?
How far do the printer's art development capabilities go? Does the printer send art out to independent services? How long does it take to get the art processed and a sample produced?
Does the printer have a large inventory of colors?
What does the printer's shop look like? Is it the kind of place that instills confidence in the printer's capabilities?
What is the printer's average production cycle time?
Is there a slow and busy time of year?
Is there one individual at the printer who will be responsible for communication regarding your account?
Who should you talk to if your primary contact is unavailable?
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Value-Added Services: Dyeing
Heat Transfers Screen Printing Dyeing Washing Embroidery What you see is not necessarily what you get. If you have had garments dyed in the past you know that this is all too true. Because of the many variables inherent in the garment dye process, there is much that can go awry. The following is an attempt to help smooth the way for you by sharing what we see as the "need to know" information relative to garment dyeing.Getting StartedAs with all manufacturing processes, the quality of the final product is only as good as the sum of the raw materials in that product. In garment dyeing the most critical raw material is the prepared-for-garment-dye (PFGD) garment. PFGD garments can be either bleached with no optical brightener or white. Fabric that is properly whitened will yield excellent garment dye results, and will provide a better base for pastel and bright colors. Non-optic fabrics are excellent for earth tones and dark colors. Non-optic fabrics may also save you money as it takes less dye to make them dark. When deciding which type of fabric to use it is best to test-dye to your color standards. Yard goods may be purchased to use for test-dyeing. There is a misconception that optically brightened fabrics are not suitable for garment dyeing. As long as the optical is uniformly applied there will not be a problem. A simple test for this is to put the fabric under an ultraviolet (black) light and look for streaks or spots. Keep in mind that a dye formula for color X on fabric Y may not yield the same color on fabric Z. To maintain consistency it is imperative that formulations be developed for each fabric type and construction. This is also the case for different lots of the same fabric (or garments). As each fabric type and construction will take the dye differently (dye uptake), it is advised that fabric types are not mixed in the dye bath. Varying shades and depth of color may result from mixed fabrics in the same dye lot. Garment dyers measure production in pounds of dry garments. Each garment dyer has different production minimums. Some dyers charge a minimum poundage regardless of the actual poundage. Make sure that you understand the minimums and how many dozens they represent.ColorAlthough most garment dyers have large color libraries, they more than likely do not have a formula ready to match your standard on your garment. So, you need to provide your color standards to the dyer for correct formulation. It is advisable to also provide sample garments or fabric to the dyer, so that the final formulation will work on "your" product. It typically takes 1-2 weeks for a lab dip to be processed. It is extremely difficult to match colors that are on a different substrate than fabric. In other words, always try to provide the dyer with nice-size fabric color swatches. The use of "paint chips," pantone books, and other non-fabric media for color matching is not recommended.Once you have approved the color standard (lab dip) from the garment dyer, it is imperative that you and the dyer agree on how much variation from standard you will accept. Many garment dyers use color-matching computers with spectrophotometers to approve dye lot color matches. The computer does not "see" the color the same way that you do and may "approve" matches that you do not deem acceptable. Garment dyers use the term "commercially acceptable match" to describe what you may feel is "close but no cigar"! Make sure that you understand what your dyer means by "commercially acceptable," and make sure the dyer understands what is and is not acceptable to you. There are many special finishes and effects, such as weathering, acid washing, stone washing, overdyeing, etc. that can be provided by garment dyers. These effects, while very popular, have their own drawbacks. They cost more, have higher "fallout rates," are more difficult to repeatedly match, and are generally rougher on the fabric. Talk to your dyer about what to expect of the process you chose.PreparationThe proper preparation technique is critical to the success of any garment dye program. PFGD garments are NOT ready to be dyed. They have been handled by cutters, sewing machine operators, inspectors, packers, etc. To get good, even dye results it is necessary to scour (wash) all garments prior to dyeing. Many dyers include a scour in their dye process. Some require you to request it and pay extra. Be advised that certain shades are highly critical from a preparation standpoint. Pastel-to-medium turquoise, lavender, and tan/khaki are highly sensitive to any surface differences panel-to-panel within a garment. For this reason we highly recommend a caustic scour as part of the preparation process.You can sometimes expedite the accuracy of what is dyed by "pre-lotting" your shipment to the dyer. Talk to your dyer and find out if packing garments by color to be dyed will be helpful. Make sure you know what your garments weigh so you can properly pack and program your work. Many garment labels will not stand up to garment dyeing. Certain dye types require longer dye cycles, and cycles may be prolonged in order to achieve a desired shade. Prolonged cycles or re-dyes will tend to strip ink off a label. Additionally, if a dyelot must be stripped in order to re-dye the garments, the labels may degrade entirely. We recommend test-dyeing any and all labels, buttons, etc. before programming production.ShrinkageIn cotton knits, shrinkage is the consolidation of the knit structure. Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. Commercial Dye and Dry equipment can accelerate shrinkage in less time (rate of shrinkage) than home laundry equipment. Ultimately all processes will promote the same degree of shrinkage. It just takes longer at home. Make sure that the after Dye and Dry dimensions correspond with your requirements. If they don't, garment pattern revisions may be necessary.The garment dye process is sometimes blamed for results outside the dyer's control. The most frequently encountered are torque and spirality, identified by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is created in the yarn formation, knitting, and fabric finishing processes. It is a condition that is considered "normal and accepted" in the industry. No one yet knows how to eliminate torque and, therefore, neither Style Source nor any other fabric manufacturer that we know of warrants against it in totality.Surface AbrasionThe physical process of garment dyeing can cause "pilling" on the surface of some knit fabrics. This is a normal result. If pilling is unacceptable to you, request that your dyer use a cellulase enzyme treatment (at extra cost). When properly applied this enzyme treatment can reduce and/or eliminate pilling caused by the garment dye process.QualityThe terms "fallout" and "redyes" refer to garments that are unacceptable after dyeing. They may be streaked, blotchy, uneven, off-shade, etc. These garments can usually be reclaimed by stripping and redyeing into darker colors. Most dyers will track and accumulate these garments for you and redye them when they have enough pounds to meet the requirements of their equipment. When possible schedule your lightest colors to be dyed first. If there is a problem with their color match after dyeing, you can move them to a darker color and start over with fresh goods for the light colors. It is much easier to redye into a darker shade than a lighter one. Garment inspection is another area that is handled differently by many dyers. Some inspect for correct color only. Some inspect for color and gross garment defects. Some will do whatever you ask, for a price. Make sure you understand how your production will be inspected and sorted.There are other services related to finishing that garment dyers can provide. These include sorting (by size, color, etc.), special packaging, hand pressing, steam tunneling, hanging, and tagging. Your dyer may provide other services that may be of value to you. Ask your dyer for what you need and remember to settle on price prior to commencing production. Final garment dimensions for garment-dyed or garment-washed products will be based upon predetermined "after process" standards. Due to the consequence of fabric shrinking variability, combined with normal sewing tolerances, the range of variation will be significantly higher than garments sewn from piece-dyed fabrics. Industry standards of +/- 5% fabric shrinkage variability illustrate the process capabilities of most fabric mills. This variability can be reduced by pre-testing fabric lots prior to cutting and adjusting patterns for fabrics exhibiting variance. It is reasonable to expect an overall process capability of +/- 3%, which still is enough variance to cause minor grades to overlap a certain percentage of the time. Arbitrary "standards" cannot be accepted if they fall outside the process capability.
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Value-Added Services: Washing
Heat Transfers Screen Printing Dyeing Washing Embroidery Garment washing is not just for cleaning anymore. There are many reasons for garment washing today. The following explains the "whys and hows" relative to garment washing.Why Garment Wash?If you are garment dyeing your product and will also have "white" in your line, garment washing is an economical way to "shrink" the white product so that the sizing is consistent with the product you garment dye. If you're applying artwork to white garments, using garment washing to preshrink the product will benefit you in two ways:First, the washing process removes most contaminants, making the application of artwork (screen print, batik, garment paints, etc.) easier. Second, there is less risk that your artwork will be negatively affected by shrinkage that would take place during home laundering. Many customers want product that is "pre-shrunk." Garment washing enables you to provide pre-shrunk product.Getting StartedWhen considering garment washing there are some basics to consider:
Are the garments made of 100% cotton? Other fibers and/or blends may need to be processed differently.
Is the fabric compacted or pre-shrunk? Garment wash results will vary based on the way the fabric was finished.
Are there anti-shrink chemicals or starches on the fabric? These will inhibit shrinkage (and dyeability).
How much will the garments shrink and will they meet your specifications after shrinkage? Run shrinkage tests on all products you use.
Will you be dyeing the garments after washing? If so, make sure the garment washer does not apply any after-wash chemicals or softeners. Garment washers measure production in pounds of dry garments. Each garment washer has different production minimums. Some washers charge a minimum poundage regardless of the actual poundage. Make sure that you understand the minimums and how many dozens they represent.Whitening, Weathering, Distressing, SofteningGarment washing may affect the whiteness level of your garments—they can look dull or yellow after processing. Most garment washers can add whitener to the process to ensure a bright white finished product. Make sure to ascertain any costs involved and factor them into your product costing. There are many special effects, such as weathering, stone washing, acid washing, distressing, etc. that can be produced by garment washers. These effects, while very popular, each have their own drawbacks. They are costly, have higher fallout rates, and are generally rougher on the fabric. Talk to your garment washer about prices and what to expect of the process you choose.Garment washing can affect the hand (feel) of the fabric. Garment washers can add fabric softener to the process. Some use softeners as part of their normal procedure. Check with your garment washer as to any extra costs associated with softening. Some softeners can affect garment dyeability. If you are planning on dyeing your garment-washed product, be sure that the softener your garment washer is using will not negatively impact your garment dye results. The best way to be sure is to insist on a "nonionic" softener and test, test, test samples for dyeability.ShrinkageIn cotton knits, shrinkage is the consolidation of the knit structure. Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. Commercial Wash and Dry equipment can accelerate shrinkage in less time (rate of shrinkage) than home laundry equipment. Ultimately all processes will promote the same degree of shrinkage. It just takes longer at home. Make sure that the after-wash dimensions correspond with your requirements. Industry standard for variance from specified shrinkage is + or - 5%. As we said before, test, test, test. The garment wash process is sometimes blamed for results outside the washer's control. The most frequently encountered are torque or spirality, identified by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is created in the yarn formation, knitting, and fabric finishing process. It is a condition that is considered "normal and accepted" in the industry. No one yet knows how to eliminate torque and, therefore, Style Source nor any other fabric manufacturer that we know of warrants against it in totality.Surface AbrasionThe physical process of garment washing can cause "pilling" on the surface of some knit fabrics. This is a normal result. If pilling is unacceptable to you, request that your washer use a cellulase enzyme treatment (at extra cost). When properly applied, this enzyme can reduce and/or eliminate pilling caused by the garment dye process. Be careful not to use this treatment on fleece!QualityThe term "fallout" refers to garments that are unacceptable after garment washing. They may be dirty, stained, discolored, and possibly torn. Many stains can be removed with rewashing. Most garment washers will track and accumulate these garments and rewash them when they have enough pounds to meet the requirements of their equipment. Ask your garment washer about their fallout and rewash policies. Do they charge for rewash and if so how much? Ask what their normal fallout percentage is. If it is over 2% you may want to consider alternative garment washers. Remember to cost fallout into your product's price.Final inspection is another area that is handled differently by many garment washers. Some inspect for dirt and gross garment defects. Some will provide inspection services to meet your criteria. Be certain you understand how your production will be inspected, sorted, and packed, and as always, be aware of the costs involved. There are other services related to finishing that garment washers can provide. These include sorting (by size, color, etc.), special packaging, hand pressing, steam tunneling, hanging, and tagging.Your garment washer may provide other services that may be of value to you. Ask your garment washer for what you need and remember to settle on price prior to commencing production.Final garment dimensions for garment-dyed or garment-washed products will be based upon predetermined "after process" standards. Due to the consequence of fabric shrinkage variability, combined with normal sewing tolerances, the range of variation will be significantly higher than garments sewn from piece-dyed fabrics. Industry standards of +/- 5% fabric shrinkage variability illustrate the process capabilities of most fabric mills. This variability can be reduced by pretesting fabric lots prior to cutting and adjusting patterns for fabrics exhibiting variance. It is reasonable to expect an overall process capability of +/- 3%, which still is enough variance to cause minor grades to overlap a certain percentage of the time. Arbitrary "standards" cannot be accepted if they fall outside the process capability
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING
Value-Added Services: Embroidery
Heat Transfers Screen Printing Dyeing Washing Embroidery If you are considering embroidery, there are several basic questions you will need to address prior to inquiring about price:
How many colors are in the design?
How large is the pattern field?
Where on the garment is the embroidery to be placed?
How many units will be in the order?
How many stitches are in the design?
Do you require having your pattern digitized or do you have a tape already made? In general, a tape from supplied artwork will cost between $75 for a simpler, lower-density design to $200 for a large, complex design. Styles Source's minimum order size to handle an embroidery program is 20 dozen per embroidery design.We do not quote prices per stitch; rather, we prefer to review your design and specifications in order to provide an accurate quotation
No waiting in line for a contract shop to "fit you in."
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